Ingredient Glossary

You can also view  the definitions in this glossary from the  product pages, by hovering over the hyperlinks in the ingredient lists.

• Aloe Vera Extract - Obtained from the leaves of the Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) plant, this extract has a soothing and refreshing action. It also helps the skin to retain moisture.
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids - Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a group of naturally occurring acids including: glycolic acid (extracted from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), malic acid (from apples and pears), tartaric acid (from grapes) and citric acid (from oranges and lemons). AHAs can also be synthetically produced. In low concentrations AHAs are moisture binding. Used in high concentrations (above 5%), in an acidic base (pH lower than 4), AHAs have an immediate exfoliating effect, as they weaken or break down the cohesion of the keratinised cells in the outer skin layer. AHAs boost skin cell renewal, but used in high concentrations (as in glycolic peels) they also impair the barrier function of the skin, leaving it exposed to UVA and microbial attack. The Herbjar uses only natural AHAs at concentrations that will not affect skin's barrier function.
• Antioxidants - Antioxidants are substances that inhibit oxidation and free radical formation, thus guarding skin and other living tissue against the damaging effects of free radicals. Antioxidants include Vitamin and Pro-Vitamin A (Carotenoids), Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Flavonoids.
• Beeswax - Beeswax (Cera alba) is simply purified wax from bees' honeycombs. It creates a protective barrier for the skin and helps retain moisture without clogging the pores.
• Blue Seakale - Blue Seakale (Crambe Maritima) is a perennial edible plant that grows wild along the Atlantic coasts of Europe, the Baltic and Black Sea coasts. With its high content of antioxidants, Blue Seakale extract increases cell proliferation and protects against free radicals and UVA-induced collagen degradation.
• Calendula Extract - Calendula (Calendula Officinalis) is a herbaceous plant with golden to orange flowers, belonging to the Daisy family (Asteraceae or Compositae). Calendula has a long history of use as a wound-healing and skin-soothing remedy, with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Do not use any product containing calendula if you suffer from ragweed allergy, or allergies to any plant in the daisy Asteraceae/Compositae plant family (e.g. Chamomile, Sunflower, Chrysanthemum).
• Camellia Oil - Extracted from the seeds of the Tea plant (Camellia Sinenesi / Camellia Sasanqua), Camellia Oil is edible and is used in skin care products for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Castor Oil - Extracted from Castor (Ricinus Communis) seeds, Castor Oil has long been used in traditional medicine to treat bacterial and fungal infections. It contains around 90% Ricinoleic Acid, a mono-unsaturated fatty acid thought to have antibacterial properties. Castor oil also contains small amounts of Undecylenic Acid, a fatty acid with proven anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties.
• Chamomile Extract - Chamomile (Matricaria Chamomilla) has been used in traditional medicine for its anti-inflamatory and antimicrobial properties. One of chamomile's most important components is bisabolol, which gives Chamomile its antiseptic properties and promotes skin healing. Chamomile also contains a group of flavonoids (including Apigenin, Luteonin and Quercetin) which have an anti-inflammatory effect. The chamomile extract used by The Herbjar is obtained by Supercritical CO2 Extraction from chamomile flowers. You will undoubtedly recognize its presence in our creams from the genuine chamomile smell. Creams containing chamomile extracts should be avoided by sufferers of allergies to plants in the Daisy family.
• Cocoa Butter - Extracted from cocoa (Theobroma Cacao) beans, cocoa butter has long been used in skin care as an emollient and natural moisturiser. It is rich in polyphenols - compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and also in Vitamin E. The Herbjar uses cocoa butter made with the cold press process, which retains the cocoa beans' antioxidant properties and aroma.
• Colloidal Oatmeal - Obtained from oat (Avena Sativa) kernels, Colloidal Oatmeal contains Beta-Glucan, a polysaccharide with anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. It has been shown to speed up the healing of skin irritation, abrasions, superficial wounds and burns.
• Cupuacu Butter - Pressed from the seeds of the Cupuacu (Theobroma Grandiflorum), an Amazonian tree related to Cocoa, Cupuacu Butter has the same softening, nourishing and emollient properties as Cocoa Butter and a similar chocolaty aroma. With a lower melting point than cocoa butter, it is more readily absorbed into the skin. One distinctive characteristic of Cupuacu Butter is its extremely high water binding capacity, even higher than anhydrous lanolin.
• Dead Sea Salt - The salt extracted from the Dead Sea is particularly rich in magnesium salts, which have documented anti-inflammatory benefits as well as positive effects on skin cell proliferation and differentiation (regenerative effect). Dead Sea Salt has also been found to improve the barrier function of the skin enabling it to maintain an optimum moisture level.
• Essential Oils - Essential Oils are volatile aromatic essences that give plants their characteristic smells. Although named "oils", they are not composed of lipids - they are concentrated, volatile liquids. Essential oils are used in perfumery, food flavouring and aromatherapy. They are often included in skin care and cosmetic products for their scents - however, the scent-carrying components of Essential Oils may irritate sensitive skin, as well as posing some risk to people prone to allergies. The Herbjar therefore offers a fragrance free alternative to each of our scented products.
• Fractionated Coconut Oil - Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is an extract of whole coconut oil, consisting of short and medium chain fatty acids (the longer chain fatty acids are removed by fractionation). Due to the small size of its molecule, Fractionated Coconut Oil is very quickly absorbed into the skin and converted into energy, thus giving a boost to cellular metabolism. Fractionated Coconut Oil is rich in Lauric Fatty Acids, known for their antimicrobial benefits.
• Free Radicals - Unstable, highly reactive molecules with one or more unpaired electrons, Free Radicals react very readily with other molecules in our bodies. In doing so they alter important cellular structures like cell membranes, proteins and nucleic acids (DNA and RNA), thus disrupting normal replication and the integrity of cells, and accelerating the ageing process. Free radicals are produced when our bodies break down food, or by harmful environmental exposures such as tobacco smoke and UV radiation.
• Geranium Essential Oil - Geranium Essential Oil is an aromatic essence obtained by steam distillation from the leaves and stalks of Pelargonium Graveolens. Geranium Essential Oil is used in aromatherapy for its relaxing and refreshing effect. The Herbjar uses Geranium Essential Oil as a natural scenting ingredient, but please note that people prone to Essential Oil allergy should choose fragrance free alternatives from the Herbjar range.
• Golden Seaweed Extract - Golden Seaweed (Laminaria Ochroleuca) is a a dark gold-coloured variety of kelp, found in shallow sea water. This seaweed was found to contain a specific set of lipids that enable its membranes to resist the oxidative stress arising from exposure to excessive sunlight. Ex-vivo studies have shown that the lipids extracted from Golden Seaweed also improve the ability of skin tissue to defend itself from oxidative stress.
• Gotu Cola Extract - Gotu Cola (Centella Asiatica), also known as Hydrocotyle and Indian Pennywort, is a vine found growing in tropical and subtropical climates in Africa, Asia, Australia, India and South America. Its active ingredient, Asiaticoside, has cell proliferation and regenerative properties and stimulates collagen production. Gotu Cola's antibacterial and wound-healing properties are also useful in the treatment of psoriasis and skin ulcers.
• Green Clay - Green Clay is a mineral sediment originally formed at the bottom of seas and oceans. First quarried in France, green clay has been more recently found in several other countries. The exact composition and proprieties of green clays vary depending on their place of origin. All of them have outstanding cleansing qualities , due to their capacity to bind to organic impurities. Applied on the skin, green clay will absorb oil, dust, contaminants and make-up, clearing clogged pores and leaving skin clean and refreshed.
• Green Tea Extract - Green Tea Extract is a powder extract from the tea plant (Camellia Sinensis) leaf. Green tea is rich in polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents. Poliphenols have also been shown to combat the immune suppression induced by UVB (the UV radiation causing skin burning), which has been linked to skin cancer. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), another component of green tea, has been shown to fight collagen breakdown.
• Jojoba - Jojoba wax is extracted from the seeds of the Jojoba shrub (Simmondsia Chinensis). Often called an 'oil', this extract is in fact a liquid wax, quite similar to the wax naturally secreted by human skin. Jojoba is an effective natural moisturising factor, helping to protect the skin against environmental distress.
• Lavender Essential Oil - Lavender Essential Oil is an aromatic essence obtained by steam distillation from the flowering tops of lavender plants (Lavandula Angustifolia). Used in aromatherapy for its relaxing and refreshing effect, it also has antiseptic properties. The Herbjar uses this Essential Oil as a natural scenting ingredient, but please note that people prone to Essential Oil allergy those who want to avoid any pottential irritants should choose fragrance free alternatives from the Herbjar range.
• Linden Flower Extract - Linden Flower Extract is obtained through maceration from the flower of the linden tree (Tilia), also known as the lime tree. Linden flowers contain flavonoids, which have antioxidant properties, and glycosides, which are monosaccharides with water-binding properties.
• Liquorice Extract - Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza Galabra) has been used for thousands of years for its medicinal properties. The extract is obtained form the roots. Its active principle is glycyrrhetic acid, proven to have anti-inflammatory properties.
• Marigold - Marigolds are a group of plants of the genus Tagetes. The plants are used for their distinctive perfume, and also to extract Tagetes Essential Oil. The word "marigold" or "pot marigold" is sometimes used as synonym for Calendula. However from a botanical classification point of view, calendula is not a true marigold.
• Marine Fennel Extract - This extract is obtained form Crithmum Maritimum, also known as Marine Fennel or Rock Samphire - a plant with edible leaves that grows wild on the rocky coasts of England. The extract promotes cellular differentiation and proliferation (a retinoid-like effect). It is also a precursor and stimulator of ceramides - sponge-like lipid molecules that help maintain moisture in the skin. The extract is rich in phosphatidylcholine, a water binding agent present in the membranes of all living cells, and coenzyme Q10, a vitamin-like substance involved in cellular respiration and energy production.
• Mearl Red Marine Algae - Mearl Red Marine Algae (Lithothamnium Calcareum) are a type of calcareous algae that live on sea beds. They look more like corals than algae and consist mostly of minerals: Calcium, Magnesium, Silica, Sodium, Chlorides and Sulphur. The action of these minerals on the skin is similar to that of mineral clays. The organic compounds of Mearl Red Algae include a group of aminoacids (protein building blocks): Proline, Lysine, Glutamic Acid and Aspartic Acid which are also found in the elastic fibres of our skin.
• Mullein Extract - Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus) is a tall, woolly-leafed weed with golden yellow flowers, which can be seen on hedge-banks, by roadsides and on waste ground. It has been used as a medicinal herb since antiquity, as an emollient, astringent and itch-relieving treatment for skin conditions such as insect bites, chaps and cracks. The flowers and leaves contain a mucilage that has a soothing effect. Our mullein extract is obtained by maceration, without the use of solvents or preservatives.
• Nanoparticles - nanoparticles are microscopic particles smaller than 100 nanometres in diameter. There is a wide range of nano-particles used in cosmetics, from smaller versions of substances cosmetic manufacturers have used for years to newly invented ingredients like the “buckyballs” (microscopic spheres of carbon atoms used as antioxidants). The problem with nano-particles is that substances broken down to particles of nano size tend to develop new chemical properties, thus exposing consumers to unknown risks. There is an ongoing debate as to whether nanoparticles penetrate into the dermis (deep skin layer) or not, with strong opinions on both sides. Current legislation does not require companies to specify if nanoparticles are present in their products. Some manufactures will choose to inform customers about it, some won't.
• Oarweed - Laminaria Digitata, also called Oarweed and Tangleweed, is a variety of golden brown kelp that lives on seabeds at depths of up to 20 meters. It is rich in minerals - iodine, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and iron - and Vitamins A, B3, B6, B12, C, E. Oarweed also contains amino acids (protein buiding blocks) such as proline, glycine and lycine, which are also found in the elastic fibres of the skin. Alginate, which makes up to 40% of oarweed's dry weight is an ideal cleansing ingredient, due to its absorbent capacity and ability to bind to oils and dirt. Oarweed also contains a polysaccharide called Fucoidan that has antioxidant and anticarcinogenic properties.
• Pomegranate Extract - This is a powder extract from the fruit of the pomegranate (Punica Granatum) containing Ellagic Acid, a potent antioxidant.
• Raw Cane Sugar - Raw Cane Sugar, an extract from the sugar cane plant, is available in two main varieties - Muscavado and Demerara. Unlike white sugar, which has been stripped of minerals and vitamins, raw cane sugar contains significant amounts of B3 (Niacin) and B5 (Pantothenic Acid) - two vitamins used by the cosmetic industry for their skin conditioning benefits - as well as potassium, magnesium, calcium and phosphorus. Raw cane sugar also contains glycolic acid, which promotes skin cell renewal and binds moisture into the skin. It is the Glycolic Acid that produces the softening effect we experience after using sugar scrubs.
• Rose Absolute - Rose Absolute is an aromatic essence obtained by solvent extraction from rose (Rosa Centifolia) petals. A beautiful scent, possibly the most used of all fragrances, rose does however contain Geraniol, Citronellol and Citral, which are potential allergens and may be irritant to the skin. As with all perfumed skin care products, there is a choice to be made between enjoying the perfume and avoiding any potential irritants. The Herbjar offers a fragrance free alternative to all our perfumed products.
• Rosehip Extract - Rosehip Extract is obtained from the fruit of the dog rose (Rosa Canina). It is naturally rich in Vitamin C, carotenoids (Pro-Vitamin A) and Flavonoids. All three substaces are powerful antioxidants. Vitamin C in particular has a crucial role in collagen formation, thus helping improve skin elasticity.
• Rosehip Oil - Rosehip Oil is extracted from the seeds of Rosa Rubiginosa - also called Rosa Musqueta in the Andes region, where it has been traditionally used in skin care. Its main active component is Retinoic Acid, which has been shown to boost cell production in the dermis, thus helping the skin to regenerate.
• Sea Buckthorn Extract - Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) is a hardy bush common in mountainous and coastal areas of Northern Europe, Asia and South America. The extract is obtained from the berries, which are edible. Sea Buckthorn Extract is rich in Vitamins C, E, K and Pro-Vitamin A Carotenoids (that give the extract its bright orange colour), sterols and flavonoids. Its outstanding regenerative properties are commonly recognised in parts of Eastern Europe, where it is used to speed up the healing of burns.
• Sesame Oil - Cold pressed from sesame (Sesamum Indicum) seeds, sesame oil has been used for thousands of years in traditional Indian and Chinese medicine. Ayurveda recommends it as an antibacterial, and some modern studies have indicated that sesame oil inhibits the growth of several types of bacteria.
• Shea Butter - Obtained from the kernels of the Shea tree (Butyrospermum Parkii), Shea Butter is edible, being used as a cocoa butter replacement in the manufacture of chocolate and other confectionery. As a skin care ingredient, shea butter is well known for its moisturising qualities. It contains allantoin, a healing, soothing and anti-irritant substance, believed to stimulate cell proliferation. Shea Butter is also rich in triterpene alcohols (lupeol, alpha- and beta-amyrin), which have been shown to stimulate collagen formation. The Shea Butter used by The Herbjar is gently refined by filtration, to preserve its natural properties.
• Shea Oil - Shea Oil is obtained by fractionating Shea Butter, a process which removes some of the saturated fatty acids and leaves the more liquid fraction of the butter. Shea Oil has similar skin care benefits to Shea Butter.
• Spearmint Essential Oil - Aromatic essence extracted from the flowering tops of Spearmint (Mentha Viridis or Mentha Spicata). Spearmint essential oil is used in aromatherapy for its cooling and refreshing effect. It is also an approved additive to foods. The Herbjar uses this Essential Oil as a natural scenting ingredient, but please note that people prone to Essential Oil allergy and those who want to avoid any pottential irritants should choose fragrance free alternatives from the Herbjar range.
• Squalane - Squalene is an oil-like substance naturally produced by human skin. The amounts secreted naturally are thought to peak in our twenties and then decrease rapidly. Squalane has antioxidant and immune-stimulating (anti-tumor) properties, as well as being an emollient and natural moisturising factor. For many years, the squalene used in cosmetics was extracted from shark liver. However in recent years, the vegetal equivalent - squalane has started to be extracted from olives, rice bran and wheat. The Herbjar uses squalane extracted from olives.
• Sunflower Oil - Sunflower Oil is pressed from sunflower (Helianthus Anuus) seeds. It is an emollient and is naturally rich in Vitamin E and Lecithin.
• Supercritical CO2 Extraction - Supercritical CO2 Extraction is a food grade extraction method that uses Carbon Dioxide (CO2) as a solvent. This is a non-toxic extraction method, which leaves no undesirable solvent residue in the extract. Because it involves cooling rather than heating, the composition and properties of the extracts are very well preserved. Supercritical CO2 extraction also has the advantage of being environmentally friendly.
• Sweet Almond Oil - Sweet Almond Oil is cold pressed from the sweet almond tree (Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis). It is an emollient and natural moisturising factor., naturally rich in Vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and E. It also contains phytosterols - plant sterols similar to cholesterol, which is an important component of skin's intercellular matrix.
• Virgin Coconut Oil - Coconut oils is extracted from the kernel of the coconut tree (Cocos Nucifera). With its outstandingly high content of short and medium chain fatty acids, coconut oil is rapidly metabolised in our cells and turned into energy. The small size of its fat molecule makes it absorb easily into the skin. Coconut oil is rich in Lauric and Myristic Acid (around 50% and 18% respectively of its total fatty acid content). Of the free fatty acids that protect human skin against microbes, Lauric and Myristic Acids are the most effective. Lauric acid was found to be the most active in suppressing the growth of Propionibacterium Acnes, the bacteria causing skin acne. The Herbjar uses only coconut oil that has been cold extracted from fresh coconuts. This ensures that the vital properties of the oil are preserved.
• Vitamin E - Vitamin E is the name of a group of substances including tocopherols and tocotrienols, all of which are powerful antioxidants. With so much exposure to environmental factors, especially UV radiation, it is important that skin tissue gets enough antioxidants to support its ability to neutralise free radicals. The Herbjar uses only natural, vegetal origin Vitamin E.
• Wheatgerm Oil - Extracted from wheat grains (Triticum Vulgare), wheatgerm oil is naturally rich in Vitamin E. It also contains Pro-Vitamin A Carotenoids, Vitamin D and Lecithin.
• White Clay - White Clay is a naturally occurring mineral substance with excellent absorbent properties. It is a gentle and effective cleanser suitable for sensitive skin.
• White Willow Bark Extract - Derived from the bark of the white willow (Salix Alba), this extract is rich in salicin. Unlike its derivative, salicylic acid, which is an irritant to the skin, salicin has a soothing action. It is also an effective anti-inflammatory, ideal for treating the irritations and blemishes that oily skin is prone to.
• Winged Kelp Extract - Winged kelp (Alaria Esculenta), also known as honeyware, edible fucus, and bladder locks in England, dabberlocks in Scotland. It is an edible seaweed widely spread along the coast of Britain and other North Atlantic coasts. The extract is rich in sterols and a range a fatty acids and was found to protect collagen fibres and stimulate collages synthesis. It also stimulates energy production at cellular level and has antioxidant benefits.
• Zinc Oxide - Commonly used in skin care to treat or prevent irritation e.g. nappy rash or poison ivy, zinc oxide has a mild astringent and antiseptic effect. Not only it is safe to apply on the skin, it is safe to ingest too, and it is commonly used as a zinc food supplement. When applied on the skin, and provided the Zinc Oxide particles are above nanoparticle size, Zinc Oxide will simply stay on the skin's surface and deliver its antiseptic benefits. The Herbjar does not use nanoparticles, all Zinc Oxide in our products consists of particles larger than 100 nanometres.